Observations of München

Day 1 - May 27th

We arrive.  Stinky -- unkempt -- exhausted.

Hello, Munich!

Our first order of business is to check-in and take showers.  Second priority, get a pretzel to snack.  Finally, we head to a late Sunday evening Mass at the Frauenkirche.  Andrew is loving the German service.  I am nodding to sleep and jerking awake every minute.

Day 2 - May 28th
The next morning, as we walk through the city, we realize that it is undergoing a face-lift.  Many of the churches and important buildings are covered in renovation screen or wrapped in construction sheets.  We climb about 300 steps up the tower of St. Peter's which is the oldest recorded parish in Munich.

It is interesting to learn about how the city rebuilt itself after the Allies bombed the Nazi headquarters here at the end of World War II.  We read somewhere that apparently Hitler and his administration knew that the attack was coming and took pictures of monuments and churches and large artwork in order to preserve it for posterity.  Turns out that the photos also helped the city rebuild itself.

Spires of the Old Town Hall

The streets are full of street entertainers.  Music wafts at you from every side as you walk down the main pedestrian roads.

We set off to explore the English Gardens.  It is a huge public park just northeast of downtown Munich.  Our first stop is to see the surfers.  There is a spot where the artificial river changes from shallow and fast-moving to deep and slow-moving.  Andrew explains that this technique is called a hydraulic dump.  I am not sure what the scientific explanation is, but it looks to me like the water rolls back over on top of itself to cause a wave.

Several people in wetsuits are lined up with their surfboards waiting their turn.  Some of the surfers crash almost immediately after losing their balance and float down river to get out of the water and walk back to the line.  Others spent several minutes riding the wave.  Many do different tricks - twists, skids, and jumps.  Then they fall in the water and float down river as well, allowing the next person to take their turn.

Surfer spalshing others in line

Surfing the river

The other highlight we happen to stumble across at the park are the old men who are sunbathing.  They walk around with their hands on their hips, as if marking their territory with their nudeness.  I mean, literally, they are just letting it all hang out!

On our way out, we cross a bridge festooned with padlocks.  Initials and dates are scratched, sometimes etched, into the surface.  Sweethearts declaring their everlasting love.

Love locks on the bridge

Day 3  - May 29th
It is our first day of rain during this entire trip.  So we stay inside and walk through some museums.  The Munich City museum is crammed with information.  There are also two special exhibits - a display of puppets (just a tad creepy) and a study of the evolution of German political and advertising posters during the World War II era.


We spend the evening walking around downtown.  The clouds are dark in the sky.

Andrew in front of the New Town Hall

A putto killing a dragon
(representing hunger and famine)
A dome of the Frauenkirche in back

Day 4 - May 30th
Today, we wander again.  Quickly tour the contemporary artwork at the Museum Brandhorst.  Honestly, I think the most interesting part of the museum is the exterior.

Museum Brandhorst

Close up of the ceramic bars
covering the exterior

We then wander back to the English Garden and watch the surfing a little before heading to the biergarten in the center of the park.  We have managed to eat at least one pretzel (brezn) every day since we have arrived.  And we have been saving the best for last.

Pretzels the size of my face!

O München, land of liter-sized beers.
This is pretty much how we looked walking back to our hostel.

Seen on the side of a portable toilet