The Mosel Valley

When we actually NEED to, we manage to wake up to our alarm.  We had done laundry and packed the night before and now we head out the door, loaded with snacks from Aunt Dodie, the makings of our breakfast.  The early morning air is chilly, dewy even.  We've timed it perfectly to catch the bus.  and there is no traffic yet - still too early.

Two trains from Den Haag to Luxembourg City.  Just a cursory glance explains why this tiny country has somehow managed to avoid being absorbed into nearby powers.  A city, surrounded by high fortifications...on a plateau standing in the center of a valley.

We stow our packs at the train station and set out on a brief exploration of the city.  We go into the fortifications.  They are awesome. We climb at least six spiral staircases, some up AND down.  Most of the staircases were in the part of the fortifications where apparently mines were planted that would self-destruct the fortifications in case of defeat. We also try to explore some off-the-path tunnels, but we don´t have a flashlight and it quickly gets too difficult to navigate with only the flash on the camera.  In one part of the fortifications, water droplets have condensed on the ceiling.  Andrew and I stand on our tiptoes and blow them off the rock and they shower onto the floor.

Luxembourg City

The fortifications

Andrew on one of many
spiral staircases

Water droplets on the ceiling

After the fortifications, there is still time for lunch, so we enjoy an Orange Fanta, Magnum ice cream bar and a torpedo sandwich. Andrew says that he feels very European; he has been wanting one of those sandwiches for a very long time after seeing everyone else with one.

* * * * *

Only one train to get to Cochem.  Andrew dozes as I watch the landscape stream past.  Eventually, I begin to recognize the Germany.  Clusters of houses amid fields and forests.  The tractors are parked right in town where the farmers live.  The dreamy, droopy evergreens - lighter green of new growth highlighting the tips of the dark green branches.

We arrive in Cochem at 8 PM.  we have no reservations, only the names and addresses of a couple bed and breakfasts.  We walk to three.  They are all full.  Someone mentions that there is a church holiday on Monday, so this weekend is busy.

Uh-oh.

At the tourist info office, we call four more places.  Full.  One man is downright rude, tells us to go somewhere else because Cochem is too popular.  Finally, though, we call another place and they are free for all three nights.  We practically sprint up the steep hill, packs bouncing on our backs, to the B&B.

Lovely shower.  Pleasant evening walk around town.  Make-shift dinner of the snacks from Aunt Dodie.  Grateful collapse into bed.

* * * * *

Cochem is split by the Mosel River.  A castle perches above and vineyards line the valley's slopes.  We rent bikes and then board a river boat that takes us about an hour upstream.  RV campsites dotted the shore of the river.  More vineyards; more small towns.

Cochem

On the river cruise

When we get off at Beilstein, we lock our bikes up and then stroll through the village.  On the wall of one of the buildings, there is a column of dates which mark some of the highest winter floods.  Some of them would have been twice as deep as Andrew is tall...AND we were already a significant distance from the river's shore.  All throughout the town, grapevines are used as ornamental plants.

We hike up the hill to the ruins of a castle, but we decide not to pay to go in and look at them.  Honestly, I am disappointed by the ruins.  It's picturesqueness is negated by the gates, turnstiles, and flags they have flying from the towers.  It looks too commercial; it barely seems like a ruin.  We spend some time looking down into the Valley before heading back down to our bikes.

Beilstein

Looking down at the river bend

Grapevine decor

We pedal the hour back to Cochem along the river.  We bike a little past Cochem and then back.  No matter which direction we ride, the wind is always blowing into our faces.  The day ends with a picnic dinner on the waterfront.  I tell the birds that it isn't natural for them to come so close to humans to look for food.

Biking along the Mosel River