Prague

Day 3

We spent the day wandering around Geneva.  The winds were so strong as we crossed the bridge over Lake Geneva that we were actually blown sideways.  Another cold day followed by a long wait at the bus station.  Our bus to Prague was almost two hours late.


Day 4

A 15 hour bus drive.  We arrive in Prague at 7:20 AM.  Steamy wisps are rising up from the Vltava river; the pink sky accentuates the spires of the city.

It is a long trek from the bus station to the hostel and by the time we arrive we are freezing again.  Apparently we have picked the coldest winter on record to travel through Europe.  After dumping our packs in our room, we wander to the south of town to the Vysehrad Fortress.  We get some good views of the city and the river.

Andrew by the walls of Vysehrad

There is one small harbor area that has been turned into an ice skating area.  The skaters have cleared rectangles for ice hockey and paths to race along.

Ice Skaters

As the day begins to darken, we wander back to our hostel, stopping at a supermarket along the way to pick up some food for dinner (bread, apples, Nutella, mozzarella and gouda cheeses, pepperoni and summer sausage, water and a chocolate bar) and for tomorrow´s breakfast (pastry, yogurt and bananas).  Everything for under $20!

Money is cheap here.  But the Czech bills are high denominations - 100, 200, 1000 and 2000 - so we always think we are spending a lot of money.  In a single day, we have made three trips to an ATM (bankomat).


Day 5

We began the day with Mass at the Church of Our Lady of Victory which happened to be the church where the Infant of Prague statue is enshrined.  The Mass was in English.  I had hoped to hear Mass in as many languages as possible, but we slept in too late and missed the Czech celebration.

As we walk through the city, we see families sledding where ever there is a slope with a little snow left.  Some of the children have small brightly-colored plastic shovel sleds, just wide enough for them to sit on and zoom down the hills.

We had planned to spend the day exploring the Prague Castle grounds and gardens today, but make a fortunate detour to Petrin Hill.  We hike up the hill past massive Stations of the Cross and discover an area of chapels, play grounds, and an Eiffel Tower copy-cat.  More great views of Prague here.  We eventually wander over to the castle and royal gardens only find that the latter is closed for the winter.

Prague from Petrin Hill

St. Vitus Cathedral through the Royal Garden gate

We hike down to and across the Charles Bridge and into Stare Mesto (the Old Town).  Down a quiet street, we pass by a cafe with steamed up windows and decide to go in and warm up with a cup of coffee.  However, after realizing that their specialty is hot chocolate, we order that instead.  Our drinks are so thick they have to be eaten with a spoon!  It was like dessert.  My hot chocolate has nuts and whipped cream; Andrew has his with cream and ice cream.

Our "warm-up" ends up being a fill-up, so rich that we skip dinner and just have apples.


Day 6

We wake up early to try to catch the Vltava River at dawn.  We are hoping to see the mists again.  We walk through flurries in the empty streets.  It is pleasantly quiet despite the bustle of people on their way to work and school.  We explore an island in the river and have a small ice-skating party of our own.

Charles Bridge and Stare Mesto (from Legii Bridge)

Getting ready to take a picture
belly-down on the ice

Legii Bridge from the island in River Vltava

We wander around some more and find a breakfast of hot drinks and muesli with yogurt in a quiet cafe.  We always feel bad creating massive dark puddles of water under the tables; the streets are covered with filthy snow that gets stuck between our treads and then melts in the warmth of inside.

Today we explore the Stare Mesto.  We hunt down the Old Town Hall and watch the bright astronomical clock strike the hour - a skeleton rings the bell.  We find several spired churches and walk past several synagogues in the Jewish district.  We cross over the Charles Bridge and purchase a painting from one of the artists there.  It is nice to find someone who knows enough English to converse with.  The painter asks us where we are from and mentions of the Biltmore Estate when we tell him.

That night, we eat out.  Afterwards we take a nice long night-time stroll along the river.

Prague Castle and the Charles Bridge

It's pleasant at Lake Geneva this time of year

Nyon on Lake Genenva

Day 1

We arrive at the Geneva airport and are greeted with below freezing temperatures, snowy ground, and a sharp wind that blasts right through my clothes.  I keep having to dash back into the airport to warm up while we wait for Sheyda to arrive.  Eventually Andrew and I both move back inside permanently.  Sheyda finds us huddled against a window, peering out expectantly.  She sneaks up behind us and gives us a big hug.

On the way to Gex, Sheyda stops by the local bakery and we have our first French croissant (a huge improvement over the airplane´s version).  I am surprised that it is so crusty and light.  I hate croissants in the states because they are so greasy.

For lunch, Sheyda melts each of us a small (6 in.) wheel of cheese and we eat it with bread and apples.  We pick up Fiona (the girl she au pairs for) from school and go back to the house.  Fiona introduces us to all of her toys and stuffed animals before Sheyda drives her to a friend´s house for the afternoon.  Andrew and I fall asleep during the car ride.

Afterwards, Seheyda takes us to see the fastest city in Switzerland - Nyon.  We walk along Lake Geneva; the spray from the lake has frozen into sheets over the railing, lamp posts, trees, stairs, even cars are covered with thick layers of ice.  We wander around the city, exploring the dead gardens and slippery cobblestone streets until we are cold enough to find a cafe where we enjoy hot drinks and Sheyda teaches us some French words and phrases.  Then we head back to Gex for a delicious dinner with Sheyda´s host family and before collapsing exhausted into bed.

With Andrew on Lake Geneva

Day 2

Andrew and I slept.  It was refreshing.  We wake up, have breakfast and then sit down and finally start booking bus trips and hostel stays.  Finally...now that we are in Europe...I guess it is time to start thinking about these sorts of things.

For lunch, Sheyda drives us up the mountain she lives on to a small restaurant for fondue.  Amazing.  Huge.  Filling.  Andrew was sad that he could not scrape the caramelized layer of cheese off the bottom of the pot.  He says it is the best part.

For dinner, Sheyda´s host family surprised us with Raclette.  Oh my gosh, so much cheese.  But once more, delicious.  Sheyda, Andrew and I stay up late trying to figure out where we are going tomorrow and how we are getting there.  Sheyda is going to London for the weekend; we are headed to Prague.  We also take a midnight walk through Gex.  It was wonderful working off all the cheese.  Sheyda shows us the spot where she would lie and look at the stars at night during the summer.

To bed to dream of more adventures!